Premium Hatchback Comparision

    Source: raj_5004@team-bhp.com

Hatchbacks - Dimension Comparision

Here is the comparision of hot hatchs dimensions.

    Source: team-bhp.com

Car body types

Cars have now been identified by their body styles and size. There are different types of body styles available in India like Sedans, SUVs, Coupes, Convertibles, Hatchbacks, Wagons, Multi-utility vehicle or Multi-purpose vehicle.

Hatchback

Hatchbacks are designed with a passenger cabin and an integrated cargo space which can be accessed from behind the vehicle by a single, top-hinged tailgate or large flip-up window. Hatchbacks commonly have two rows of seats and frequently include fold-down rear seats, which enable a substantial portion of the interior space to be used as a cargo area. Usually, the rear seat can be folded completely to expand the cargo space. The typical hatchback roof rakes down steeply behind the C-Pillar, resulting in very little car length behind the rear wheels and thus no room for a side window over the load area. The tailgate is also referred to as the hatch. Hatchbacks are often described as three-door with two entry doors or five-door with four entry doors cars.
Examples: Maruti Swift, Chevrolet Beat, Hyundai i10, Volkswagon Polo, Tata Indica etc.

Sedan / Saloon

Sedan is a passenger car that comprises with two rows of seats and enough space in the rear for adult passengers. The roof structure of a sedan will typically have a fixed “B” pillar on all the sedan models and comes usually with a good trunk space. Some examples for sedans in India are Audi A4, A8, BMW 3 and 5 series, Ford Fiesta, Hyundai Accord cars. The sedans are mostly four-door and two-door models.
Examples: Honda City, Hyundai Verna, Tata Indigo, Volkswagon Vento etc.

MUV/MPV

MPV stands for multi-purpose vehicle. MUV (multi-utility Vehicle) is similar in shape to a van that is designed for personal use. So basically they are taller than a sedan, hatchback or a station wagon, designed for maximum interior room in order to fit in more occupants in the car. MUVs are considered the best over other vehicles for long trips with family members and friends.

Example: Maruti Ertiga, Toyota Innova etc.

 

SUV

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SUV stands for Sport Utility Vehicle, is a passenger vehicle that perfectly blends towing and hauling capacity of a pick up truck with the passenger carrying space of a  minivan or station wagon with excellent on or off-road capabilities. These are designed with a combined passenger and cargo compartment. Utility vehicles are rapidly capturing the market due to its multifarious use. Most of the SUVs have three rows of seats with a spacious cargo area behind the third or last row of seats. Examples: Tata Safari, Mahindra XUV, Honda CRV etc.

 

Convertibles

 

Convertibles comes with flexible operating roof. If the top is made of strong or rigid material as steel, it is called retractable hardtop. With the press of a button it can be converted into coupe or convertible. The collapsible roof section is usually made from flexible canvas or vinyl or an articulated folding frame. Now most of the modern vehicles come with an electrical retraction mechanism. When the top is erected it is secured to the windshield frame header with automatic or manual latches.

Coupe

The coupes are the cars which are reduced from 4 doors to 2 doors offering either two seats or 4 seating that includes space for two passengers in the front and two in the rear. They are often called as sporty version of sedans.

 

Crossovers

A crossover (or CUV: crossover utility vehicle) is a vehicle built on a car platform and combining, in highly variable degrees, features of a sport utility vehicle (SUV) with features from a passenger vehicle, especially those of a station wagon or hatchback. Using the unibody construction typical of passenger vehicles, the crossover combines SUV design features such as tall interior packaging, high H-point seating, high ground-clearance or all-wheel-drive capability — with design features from an automobile such as a passenger vehicle's platform, independent rear suspension, car-like handling and fuel economy.

 

Classification of Car Segments

As per SIAM (Society of Indian Automobile Manufacturers)

The classification of segments are done as per length of the vehicle, (Passenger car segment)

A1 - Mini - Upto 3400mm (M800, Nano)

A2 - Compact - 3401 to 4000mm (Alto, wagon r, Zen,i10,A-star,Swift,i20,palio,indica etc)

A3 - Midsize - 4001 to 4500mm (City,Sx4,Dzire,Logan,Accent,Fiesta,Verna etc)

A4 - Executive - 4501 to 4700mm (Corolla,civic,C class,Optra,Octavia, etc)

A5 - Premiun - 4701 to 5000mm (Camry,E class,Accord,Sonata,Laura,Superb,etc)

A6 - Luxury - Above 5000mm (S class,5 series etc)

B1 - Van - Omni, Versa, Magic etc

B2 - MUV/MPV - Innova, Tavera, Sumo etc

SUV - CRV, Vitara etc

Source: shemimon on carwale.com

 

Tinting Your Car’s Windows

There are several tangible benefits of tinting your car windows. This is one accessory whose versatility and cost means it can be applied to any car. That said, before tinting your car windows, you must be familiar with the window tinting laws for your state.

Good window tinting film is resilient and almost maintenance free. They provide your car with an excellence finish, protect color and also provide an anti-scratch coating. Apart from this there are many other benefits you can get, read on to know.

1. The key benefit of tint application is to prevent the harmful sun rays. It provides up to 90% light and infrared rejection, which not only protects passengers but also keeps the car’s interior in pristine condition.

2.It helps to maintain the interior of your car at a cooler temperature and thus helps reduce fuel-consumption and running cost of your car because a car that is cool from inside uses less fuel to run an air conditioning system. .

3. Window tints also blocks nearly about 99% of the UV rays that acts as a sunscreen for the vehicle and reduce the causes of fading. As the entry of ultra violet rays is blocked, tinting helps preserve the interior integrity of your car and maintain its resale value.

4. Reducing the amount of UV rays also reduces the risk of skin cancer, early aging, and other harmful effects of UV rays on the health.

5. Non-tinted glasses are more likely to breakage during the event of an accident. The tint film holds all the shards of glass together and prevents flying glass from injuring the occupants of the car.

6. Tinting provides you privacy and also helps in reducing the risk of theft as outsiders will not be able to have a sneak peek into your car.

7. It also reduces the amount of dangerous glare from environmental elements like bright sunlight, rain storms and also other elements like approaching headlights, which indirectly offer a safe drive.

8. Delivers a sleek appearance that gives the car a classy, stylish look, car window films also help increase the comfort level of the car passengers.

Window tinting not only has all of the above advantages but will also improve the aesthetic appeal of the car exterior. So, stop waiting and tint your car’s windows today so you can reap the benefits of window tint!

As per new Rule :
Only car windows that have been tinted by the manufacturers are allowed; besides this, all vehicles with any percentage of tinted film have to remove it, even if it is within permissible limits - 70% transparency in the front and rear windows and 50% transparency on side windows.

10 tips for Changing a Tyre

Tyres are the only component in a car’s whole body that continuously keeps in contact with surface and because of it they remain highly prone to the faults and deformities. That is why, it is very essential for every car owner to have knowledge of how to change a flat tyre. Knowledge not only makes you self dependent but also fall very essential when tyre of your car burst’s out during a long journey. Below are few tips for changing a car tyre.

Source: http://content.artofmanliness.com/uploads//2012/08/Changing-Flat-2.jpg

1) Remember, changing a tyre is not possible without the help of a number of right tools including a jack and a wheel brace.

2) Whenever, the tyre of your car goes flat, the first step should be pulling it over to a safe area (away from traffic). Also, don’t forget to turn on the hazard / parking lights and applying the hand bakes. To be on safer side, put a rock piece or a brick beneath the other side tyres of the car.

3) The first step should be getting down on your knees and try to find small grooves where the jack needs to be positioned. Now, try to shift some of the vehicle’s weight from flat tyre by turning the handle slowly.

4) Keep in mind that while changing a car tyre, applying right technique much more crucial than using your strength.

5) Unfasten the nuts of the tyre you are going to replace before applying jack. For loosening-up the nuts place the wheel-brace on any of the nut and turn it anticlockwise. You might have to fit on the nuts in case it refuses to budge easily.

6) Now slowly jack-up the car so that the tyre can be inflated fully.

7) Lift the wheel out of the car after removing all of the nuts. Again if wheel refuses to come out due to corrosion, install it back on a single nut and give it a good kick so that it can easily come out.

8) Now care fully put the new tyre into the bolts keeping the air valve’s face on your side. First tighten all the bolts with your hand and than use a small pinch of wheel brace to tight them further. Don’t tight nuts fully at this step as the car is yet to jacked-down on that wheel.

9) Now care fully jack down the car and use full strength to tighten the nuts further.

10) Don’t forget to remove the rock / brick to which you had placed beneath the tyres. Also carefully place the jack in side the car on its original place.

 

Cleaning Car Interior

Many people go to professionals to get their car interiors cleaned. They charge lots of money for this job. However, if you learn how to do it you can do so easily on your own. So, here are some useful tips for keeping your car’s interior clean and well maintained.

Remove the floor mats and shake them out well to remove loose debris. Take a vacuum cleaner to clean the seats and the floor. Using the proper attachment, reach around the pedals, under the seats, and the area between central console and front seats.

 
Take a soft brush and attach it with vacuum cleaner. Now clean the dashboard, leather seats and stereo properly. Be careful not to damage vents, knobs and sticking parts.

Use a spray cleaner for seats and door. You need to just spray and rub very well. You can also use laundry detergent as well instead of spray. Just add a small amount of mild detergent to warm water and squeeze a sponge or cloth into it. Use the damp cloth to wipe the upholstery and rub harder on very grimy areas. Hereafter, just dry it off completely. Ensure there is no spilled water in your vehicle as it will cause mold, corrosion, etc.

Repeat the same process to clean the carpet. Do not soak the carpet in water, it will cause corrosion and mould smell.
 
Now its time to clean the dashboard and other plastic or timber part of your car. Clean your dashboard with multi-purpose cleaner and a moist cloth. Dry the dashboard off thoroughly with a clean lint free dry cloth. To make it shiny, use a polish for plastic.
 Lastly, clean all the windows from the inside and outside. Use a suitable glass cleaner to wipe the interior of the windshield and the windows. Try not to dab with a rough cloth as it may cause scratches.
 
Finish off with a quick spray of air freshener and enjoy a ride in your freshly cleaned car !

Terms of the Automotive World

A-PILLAR

Vehicles have two A-pillars, one on either side of the front windshield. The A-pillar usually supports the roof of a vehicle and is located in front of the driver. On convertible models it also represents the main roll-over protection, and is among the strongest body parts.

ABD (Automatic Braking Differential )

The Automatic Braking Differential (ABD) system was co-developed by Bosch and Porsche in order to counteract unnecessary wheel spin by one of the driving wheels. In essence, ABD is an electronic locking differential that uses the brakes and inputs from the Anti-lock Braking System sensors to simulate "the lock" of one of the wheels in case of hard acceleration or during a high-speed maneuver.

On most car models, the ABD does not substitute for a real locking differential, but is a supplementary system which provides better directional stability and more traction on less-than-ideal road surfaces by applying braking power to any slipping wheel during acceleration.

ABS (Antilock Braking System )

Originally developed for aircraft braking systems in the first half of the twentieth century, the Antilock Braking System (ABS) is essentially used to improve stability during braking and in some cases it can even shorten braking distances altogether. Appearing in various mechanical forms before, the first modern electronic four-wheel ABS system was co-developed by Mercedes-Benz and Bosch.

In cars without ABS, during hard braking the wheels lock, thus making impossible for the car to be steered and the vehicle most likely skids into the obstacle the driver is trying to avoid. The ABS prevents wheel lock-up during braking maneuvers by using sensors which can determine if any wheel is slowing down more than the others and computer-controlled valves which can limit the pressure delivered to each brake cylinder on demand. The whole system is controlled via a master ECU (Electronic Control Unit).

Since the ABS constantly pumps the brakes during a braking maneuver the driver can concentrate on steering the car while applying constant pressure on the brake pedal, without fear of losing control of the car's direction. Also, while braking on uneven surfaces (left tires on gravel and right ones on tarmac, for example) the ABS can keep the car's stability under control.

ACC (Adaptive Cruise Control )

With the help of a laser or a radar sensor, the Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) system recognizes preceding vehicles, calculates their speed and keeps the distance required by automatically acting on the brakes and/or engine power.

ACC can scan the area in front of the vehicle in order to determine the distance to the vehicle ahead. The information gathered by the sensors and/or radar is used to warn the driver if he/she is tailgating or to maintain an automatic safety distance to the vehicle by cutting engine power or activating brakes if necessary.

Some ACC systems can actually get the vehicle to a complete halt without any driver intervention in case they're detecting an impending impact with the object in front of the car.

ACC (Automatic Climate Control)

The Automatic Climate Control is an air-conditioning unit which can automatically set the temperature desired by the driver without being influenced by the outside temperature or other factors. The most advanced climate control systems nowadays use different sensors and can take into account outside temperature, the sun rays' intensity and even the angle on which they're setting on the car in order to automatically regulate the temperature requested by the driver.

AIRBAG

The airbag is also called a "Supplementary Restraint System", and in short it consists of an inflatable bag or envelope which keeps the occupants from hitting any hard parts of the vehicle's interior during a crash. In case of a collision, cars equipped with airbags give a much better chance of survival for its occupants, but ONLY when seat belts are worn - hence the "supplementary" part.

The way it works is pretty simple in theory: in case of a sudden deceleration (such as a crash) accelerometers within the car's body trigger the ignition of a gas generator propellant to inflate a nylon fabric bag very rapidly (under 1 tenth of a second). The airbag has small vent holes on its side in order to allow the propellant gas to be slowly expelled from it just as the occupant pushes against the bag.

Most airbag equipped vehicles have several accelerometers and/or gyroscopic sensors to help sense various types of impacts. The different signals from these sensors are fed into a microcomputer which can determine the angle of impact and even the severity of the collision taking place. Depending on the result of these calculations, the airbags ECU will decide if the airbag deployment is necessary or not.

APS (Acoustic Parking System)

The Acoustic Parking System (APS) uses ultrasonic sensors installed at the rear as well as at the front of a vehicle to make parking easier. Using information from the sensors, a microprocessor calculates how far is the car from an obstacle. An intermittent warning tone or lights on a display are usually used to give the driver warning of an impending impact with any object caught by the ultrasonic sensors' sight.

AWD (All wheel Drive)

Sending power to every one of the vehicle's wheels all the time, or only when needed, through active or non-active differentials or a transfer case.

BHP (Brake Horsepower)

Brake Horsepower is the imperial (or British) measure of an engine’s horsepower, and it is about 0.98 out of a metric horsepower.

C-PILLAR

The pillar situated between the rear side windows and the rear window, that supports the roof. It's the last roof supportive pillar on normal four door sedans.

CRDI

CRDI (Common rail Diesel Injection) is the marketing name given by Mercedes to their modern diesel engines, which are using common rail injection technology. In essence, common rail is a development of the direct injection system. Conventional direct injection diesel engines must build up fuel pressure for each cylinder injection, whereas in CRDI (and other common rail systems) the pressure is generated independently of the injection sequence and remains constantly available in the fuel line (on a common rail).

Acting as an accumulator or a separate reservoir, the common rail is usually situated above the cylinders and is distributing the fuel to the injectors and a high and constant pressure. Regulated by the engine ECU, special solenoid valves control the amount of fuel being injected in each cylinder. The biggest advantage of this system is the power and fuel economy induced by the efficiency of common rail over conventional injection systems.

CRDi is the marketing name given by Hyundai-Kia to all of the common rail diesel engines powering their vehicles.

CHASSIS

The term "chassis" usually describes a vehicle's structural frame, on which the actual body sits, but this is only true on "body on frame" vehicles. In vehicles with unitized or "unibody" construction, the chassis comprises everything but the doors, hoods, engine and suspension elements.

CROSSOVER

A crossover is a type of automobile which blends the main characteristics of at least two car segments. Most crossover cars nowadays bring together the versatility of a family car with that of an SUV.

CURB WEIGHT

Curb weight is the weight of an empty vehicle, without cargo and driver and passengers, but including maximum amounts of fuel, oil, coolant and standard equipment, including the spare tire and tools. In the EU legislation, curb weight means the cars has to be weighed with the reservoir filled at 90%, a 68 kg driver, 7 Kg of luggage and all the other fill ups made.

DISC BRAKES

Disc brakes are the most common and also most effective means of stopping a vehicle. This type of braking system usually consists of a disc that rotates at the same speed as the wheel to which it is attached, straddled by a brake caliper. The caliper contains brake pads which are operated by one or more small pistons that squeeze against the surface of the disc to slow it down or even stop it. Compared to the drum version, disc brakes operate much more efficiently at high temperatures and wet conditions, basically by having a more complete design.

DRL (Daytime Running Lights)

Daytime Running Lights (DRL) are a new feature incorporated on some of the modern cars in order to insure better visibility for other drivers, which in turn would help prevent more crashes. They are usually comprised of normal high-beam headlamps with reduced intensity or low-beam headlamps and are deactivated the moment "normal" headlamps are turned on.

DRUM BRAKES

A drum brake is made of a drum-shaped housing (which is usually out of cast iron) that is attached to the wheel. Inside the drum there are usually two brake shoes curved around the interior that are forced into contact with the inner drum. The contact of the pads with the inner section of the drum housing provides braking. Drum brakes are very simple and generally very effective, except under heavy or hard use and under wet conditions, which is why they are less and less common on modern cars.

EBD

Electronic Brake force Distribution (EBD). It actually senses the weight in the rear of the car (trunk, rear seat, or even how much fuel is in the tank) and sends more force to the rear brakes accordingly. So you experience more effective, better balanced braking.

ENGINE BRAKING

Engine braking is a technique of slowing down a vehicle without the help of brakes but by using the engine's own power. It is best done with a manual transmission, although automatics can also be up to the task, especially modern ones.

FWD

Front-wheel drive (FWD) is a term use to describe a vehicle layout in which only the front wheels are powered.

GROUND CLEARANCE

Ground clearance is the measurement from the lowest-hanging point under a vehicle (usually a differential, part of the suspension or the exhaust system) towards the ground. A high ground clearance allows a vehicle to drive more easily off-road or through heavy snow without damaging the underbody.

HATCHBACK

A hatchback is a type of automobile layout, consisting of a passenger cabin which includes an integrated cargo space, accessed from behind by a hatch or a flip-up window - which is usually counted as a 3rd or 5th door. Hatchbacks are also often called three-doors (two entry doors and the hatch) or five-doors (four entry doors and the hatch) cars.

HID

High Intensity Discharge (HID) headlamps use the light of a plasma discharge arc to generate light. Each lamp contains a HID light source, electronic ballast, an optical reflector and lens, which can give the headlamps low or high beams by changing.

INTERCOOLER

The intercooler is a device used to cool the air coming into the combustion chamber on turbocharged and/or supercharged engines. This is done because cooler air produces more power, and charged engines tend to heat the intake air while it's being compressed, thus decreasing its burn and combustion chamber fill-up efficiency. Most intercoolers have an air-to-air system, air-to-liquid system, or sometimes combination of both.

LUV  (Luxury Utility Vehicle)

While not having an official definition, LUV (Luxury Utility Vehicle) is said to be the acronym for a pickup truck or SUV with a high specification body and interior, while downsizing their primary purpose (hauling or off-roading).

MPV (Multi Purpose Vehicle)

The MPV (an acronym for Multi Purpose Vehicle) is a multi-passenger vehicle based on a car platform with maximized interior space. They are usually used by families and range in size from compact cars to almost van-like dimensions

SUV

The Sport Utility Vehicle (SUV) is a type of passenger vehicle which combines the carrying capacity of a station wagon or minivan with features like an increased ground clearance and all-wheel drive. At first they were derived from truck platforms but most of them are now using unibody construction for a lighter weight and better fuel economy.

POWER STEERING

Power steering was developed in order to reduce the effort needed to steer the vehicle. In other words, the driver can change the vehicle's direction with the help of an external power source that can assist this operation.

Most power steering systems employ hydraulic pressure and are operated using power from the engine, but in recent years, electro-hydraulic and even 100% electric systems have been introduced.

Some modern steering systems can provide a variable amount of assist, depending on the speeds at which the vehicle is moving, while others are even using the "drive-by-wire" technology, with no direct linkage between the steering wheel and the the wheels.

RACK-AND-PINION STEERING

Delivering a more precise feel than recirculating ball systems, rack-and-pinion steering is a common type of steering mechanism on modern automobiles. In simple terms, it consists of two gears that convert rotational movement into a linear one.

One of the gears meshes with a rack (a toothed metal bar), which in turn is directly linked to the wheels via tire rods. By rotating the gear with the steering shaft, the circular motion converts into a linear one and moving the rack from side to side, therefore turning the wheels into the desired direction.

SEDAN

The sedan is the most common configuration of a modern automobile. Sedans usually have four doors, although the term can be used to describe a two-door body also. Most of them have a three-box configuration, but two-box bodies are also common, mostly in Europe.

TACHOMETER

The tachometer is essentially a gauge that can display an engine's revolutions per minute (rpm or revs).

TORQUE

Torque (also called couple) is a vector that measures the amount of rotational effort exerted at the crankshaft by an engine. The unit of measure is a pound-foot in the US and UK (and other Imperial system using countries), and Newton meter by metric system standards (specifically Europe).

TRANSMISSION (gearbox)

The transmission (also called gearbox) is a gear-changing assembly which consists of a number of gears and other associated parts and it is used to transfer the power from a vehicle's engine to one or more driving axles.

VALVES

A valve is a device that regulates the flow of gases in and out of the cylinders of an internal combustion engine. Intake valves allow the air and fuel to enter the combustion chamber, while exhaust valves allow the burned gases to exit after combustion.

WHEELBASE

Wheelbase is the distance between the front axle and the rear axle of a vehicle. Cars with a longer wheelbase are more stable at high speeds and provide better interior room, while cars with a shorter wheelbase have better city handling and are generally shorter.

 Source:www.autoevolution.com

Govt Number Plates (HSRP)

Starting May 1/2012, all new vehicles sold in India will be fitted with High Security Registration Plates (HSRP). On the basis of the recommendations made by the Technical Standing Committee on Central Motor Vehicles Rules, the Central Government had amended rule 50 of the Central Motor Vehicles Rules, 1989, mandating introduction of new High Security Registration Plates, both in respect of new and in-use motor vehicles throughout the country.

 

Features of  High Security Registration Plates (HSRP):

 

1. Chromium hologram.
2. A retro-reflective film, bearing a verification inscription ’India’ at 45 degree inclination.
3. Laser numbering, which is unique in nature containing alpha-numeric identification of both Testing Agencies and the manufacturers.
4. The Registration numbers to be embossed on the plates
5. In case of rear registration plate, same to be fitted with a non-reusable snap lock to make it tamper proof.
6. A Chromium based third registration plate in the form of sticker is to be attached to the wind shield, wherein the number of engine and chassis are indicated along with the name of registering authority. If tampered with, it self destructs.
7. In front and rear registration plates, letter IND in blue color is hot stamped on extreme left centre of the plates. 

 

Source:www.theautomotiveindia.com(gears1313)

Fitting vehicles with HSRPs has been under consideration since 1989. But the implementation process has gained traction only now after the Supreme Court cracked the whip on state governments over repeated delays. The regular registration plates can be easily tampered with, making car thefts easy. Fancy number plates also make it difficult to track down lawbreakers on the run. HSRPs are tamper-proof and non-replaceable, which could prove to be a deterrent to car thieves. It will also aid in creating a computerised, national data of motor vehicles – which currently is not the case as the records are created and maintained manually.

How much will it cost?

A set of HSRP plates for four-wheelers cost Rs. 334 and for two-wheelers Rs. 111. Commercial vehicle owners need to shell out Rs. 134 while Heavy Commercial Vehicles are required to pay Rs. 258 (including taxes). The plates also come with a minimum guarantee of five years.

How do I get one? How long will it take?

If you’re buying a new vehicle then you needn’t bother much as all new vehicles sold in the country will come fitted with HSRPs. The registration number of the vehicle will be put on the front and rear windshield of the vehicle as well. Existing vehicles will be given a time span of two years to switch to HSRP from June 15. To get an HSRP installed in your vehicle, owners would have to visit the local RTO, where the new plate will be issued within 48 hours upon showing the smart registration cards. Fitting the plates in itself is just a 5 minute job. There are also talks of streamlining the process by taking it online.     

Authorised Dealers (Mumbai)

M/s Shimnit Utsch India pvt. Ltd,
8th floor, Regent Chambers, Nariman Point,
Mumbai-400021
Maharashtra.    From CRRI 

Eastern (Steel & Saws) Industries  Pvt. Ltd.
B-10,Deonar village Road,
Deonar, Mumbai-400038,
From  CRRI

M/s Omish Traders,
Social Compound , Marol Pipline,
Andheri-Kurla Road, Andheri (E),  Mumbai-400059
From  ARAI

Shifting Gears

 

Knowing when and how to shift the gears on your car is not one of those things that is immediately intuitive to most people. But once you learn to do it accurately, you will be able to make your ride easier and smoother. Here are some tips to help you learn when and how to shift gears for a pleasant ride.

With manual transmission, the first gear that you employ allows to get moving from 10 to 15mph. if you want to increase the speed, you will need to shift into the second gear. Using the car’s 2nd gear for “engine braking” is a good way to reduce speed without using the brakes as much. Similarly, you can apply 2nd gear to turn the car in to the corners to help maintain a slow speed.

Of course, you shift to a higher gear when you want to go faster. The speeds at which these top gears should be used vary from one car to another. So, it will need practice before you become familiar to your own car gears. Generally, third gear is suitable for driving in towns and cities, though you will have to go back into first gear when you want to stop and have to start out again.

Whilst shifting gear you must always keep your eyes on the road. The sound of the engine can tell you when you need to shift gear. The RPM gauge on your dash also helps you determine the appropriate gear. If the car is running faster than the capacity of the gear, you will hear a whirring sound that is higher pitched than prior. This indicates a need for gear change. When the gear has to be moved to a higher gear, the RPM gauge will normally reach 3000 to 3500 RPM.

For a successful gear change, raise your right foot off the gas (accelerator) pedal entirely while fully pressing the clutch pedal with your left. The engine will immediately become quite and the RPM will fall to an idling rate. With the clutch still pressed, select the second gear. Than release the clutch pedal slowly and smoothly while gradually pressing the gas pedal at the same time. Repeat the same procedure when selecting the higher gears.
 

Generally, one should change to 2nd gear at the speed to 10kms, 3rd at 20-25kms, 4th at 35-40kms & 5th at 50kms - it also depends on how you are driving / traffic conditions.

Car Blind Spot

Car blind spot
A high number of accidents occur due to a lack of observation when overtaking or changing lanes, in particular, not checking the blind spot.

A car blind spot is an area that cannot be seen by looking in either the main rear view mirror or the side mirrors. A car, cyclist or motorbike can easily be concealed in the blind spot. A significant amount of accidents can be reduced if the blind spot is checked before changing lanes.

This section offers an explanation of the car blind spot.

What is a blind spot?
In this diagram of a cars blind spot, the blue shaded areas indicate the areas where the driver of the red car cannot see anything in the side mirrors - the blind spot.

Looking at the red car in the diagram, we can see that he can see the orange car in the right side mirror.

The yellow car however is totally out of view of both the drivers field of vision and the left side mirror. The red car is unlikely to know of the yellow cars presence unless he checks the blind spot to the left.

If the red car would like to change over to the left hand lane where the yellow car is, he would need to check his mirrors initially and also look over his left shoulder to check the left blind spot which his mirrors do not cover.

When should the blind spot be checked?
Essentially, just before you intend on changing lanes. This can include but not limited to dual carriageways and motorways and multi-lane roads within towns and cities. Learner drivers on a driving test must check the right blind spot before driving off. A cyclist could be in the right blind spot just as you are about to move off into their path.

Failure to check the blind spot before moving off during a test will certainly result in failing.

Blind spots also need to be checked more frequently in busy towns and cities where cyclists are present. For instance, if you are making a left turn, you will of course need to check your mirrors before making the turn followed by a signal. Even after following this procedure and making it clear for your intention to turn left by signalling, cyclists all too often cycle past you on the left. Checking your left blind spot in these situations is important.

Clutch Control

Clutch control

One of the most difficult challenges of learning to drive is the correct operation of the clutch, which we know as clutch control. Many learners opt to take an automatic driving test to alleviate the stress of having to operate the clutch.

A significant problem with many learner drivers is lack of preparation by not looking at what is happening in front. For example if you have stopped in traffic, a learner will often wait till the car directly in front starts to move before they think about operating the clutch. Ideally they need to be looking further ahead for signs that the traffic has started to move and to get they prepared to move.

How does a clutch work?

To gain a better understanding of clutch control, you need a basic understanding of how a clutch works. A car engine, even on tick-over is constantly spinning. A clutch separates the car wheels from the engine. If the car wheels where permanently linked to the engine, it wouldn't be possible to stop the car without the engine stalling. Without a clutch, it would also be very difficult for the car to move off from a stationary position. A clutch also enables you to change gear.

Engine A In the diagram provided, we can see the two plates that represent the clutch. Engine A has the clutch pedal depressed to the floor, which in turn separates the clutch friction plates. When the clutch plates are separated, it disconnects the car engine from the wheels, which also prevents any power to the wheels.

One of the clutch plates is still spinning along with the engine, as the engine is constantly spinning. A gear is then selected.

Engine B Now that the car is in-gear, the clutch pedal needs to be raised, which in turn brings the clutch plates together. When moving off from a stationary position using 1st gear, lifting the clutch pedal slowly allows the clutch plates to come together slowly. This allows the plates to slip and allow the car to move off smoothly until they are tightly pressed together, joining the broken link between the wheels and the engine.

 

Learning clutch control

Clutch control is a technique that allows a driver to control a cars speed. Learning clutch control is essential for passing the driving test as you may be required to demonstrate hill starts to the driving examiner, plus the driving manoeuvres require a high level of clutch control by keeping the car incredibly slow.

Learning clutch control for the first time should be done on a flat, even and quiet road.

Ensure the car is setup correctly so that you can depress the clutch fully without overstretching, you are wearing your seat belt, the engine is turned on and the handbrake is OFF.

1.       Depress the clutch fully and select first gear.

2.      Provide the engine with a little extra power by very gently pressing the accelerator so that the rev counter reads around 1500 rpm.

3.      Ensure before your car moves that it is safe to do so and now very slowly, raise the clutch.

When the clutch plates just start to meet, this is called the clutch bite point. You will know it's the bite point at the car will slowly start to move. The clutch bite point can occur at any point during the clutches working travel as you lift it, as all clutches are different. The bite point however will always be in the same place for that particular clutch. The key here is with plenty of practice is to remember where the bite point is.

Now that we have found the bite point, the car is slowly starting to move forward, now fully depress the clutch and gently brake to a stop. Keep repeating the process by giving the engine a little power and very slowly lifting the clutch till the car starts to move and fully depressing the clutch. By repeating this, you will gain an understanding where the bite point occurs.

Once you have got the hang of that, try it again but instead of fully depressing the clutch once the car starts to move, press the clutch just a small amount; try and think the thickness of a one pound coin. By doing this you are slightly releasing the clutch plates, disengaging the wheels and letting the car slow down. As soon as the car has slowed slightly, lift the clutch around the thickness of a one pound coin again to move the car again. Essentially what you are trying to achieve is to keep the car moving but at the slowest possible speed. This technique is called slipping the clutch and is required to perform the driving manoeuvres on lessons and the driving test.

Clutch control techniques

More advanced clutch control techniques will need to be mastered for holding the car steady on the clutch bite point. These techniques are important for safely moving a car off on a hill.

Clutch control on a hill

A driving test may involve the examiner requesting you stop and move off again on a hill. This depends on the location of your driving test centre as certain parts of the UK are very flat.

If you stop on a hill, the process is similar to above, except you will require the use of the handbrake. Once stopped:

1.       Apply the handbrake and select first gear.

2.      Provide the engine with a little extra power, again around 1500 rpm on the rev counter.

3.      Gently raise the clutch until you reach the bite point. You will know when you have the bite point as the car may creak a little or the bonnet may rise slightly as the car tries to move forward but cannot due to the handbrake being applied.

4.      Provided you have the clutch bite point, the car will not roll backwards when you release the handbrake.

Clutch control tips

Practice learning clutch control until you are confident you can move the car off in a reasonable time and without stalling.

Slipping the clutch

Slipping the clutch is referred to when the clutch is lowered and raised in the bite point area to keep the car moving slowly. Slipping the clutch is used when moving very slowly in traffic or when performing driving manoeuvres such as the turn in the road.

Certain drivers may leave the car in gear and slip the clutch whilst stationary in traffic. This practice significantly increases wear on the clutch plates. Replacement clutches are expensive so if stationary in traffic either fully depress the clutch and apply the handbrake or if for a long period, place the gear lever into neutral and release the clutch.

The clutch must be raised slowly to allow the two plates to join slowly else the static plate connecting to the rotating plate will make the engine stall or wheelspin will occur. This form of clutch control is called slipping the clutch.

Riding the clutch

Whilst driving at a steady speed on a clear road, ideally the driver should remove their foot from resting on the clutch and place it on the foot well floor or a dead pedal (place to rest your foot) if the vehicle has one. If a driver rests the foot on the clutch whilst driving, this is referred to riding the clutch.

Clutches contain a clutch release bearing which applies pressure to the pressure plates to aid releasing the clutch plates. Resting your foot on the clutch can cause wear on the release bearing and too much pressure can cause the plates themselves to slip, causing significant wear to the clutch plate friction material.

Do automatic cars have a clutch?

Automatic cars do not have clutches and instead use a device called a torque converter. A torque converter is a circular object that rotates with the engine and uses oil to drive the transmission which turns the wheels. As the engine spins faster more oil is released at higher pressures into the torque converter. Centrifugal force drives the oil onto fins, which provides the energy needed to the transmission.

Is slipping the clutch bad?

Slipping the clutch is bad in the sense that it wears the clutch plate out. Slipping the clutch is what it's designed to do however and is part of the process of driving. Slipping the clutch is essential when for instance moving in extremely slow moving traffic where the car needs to move slower than the actual natural revolutions of the engine and where you would need to park the car in a difficult location and very slow speeds are needed. Cases such as this would require partially disengaging the clutch plates to reduce speed and gain accuracy. Riding the clutch is different however as it is the driver unnecessarily wearing the clutch out.

Part of the first driving lesson involves providing a learner driver with an explanation of what the clutch biting point is and also how to physically find it. The bite point is usually around half way through the clutches working travel (around mid-way from fully pressed to fully release). The does however vary a little from car to car.

An experienced driver will have little need to use the bite point except for very slow moving traffic and moving off on a hill. A learner driver may find that using the bite point in general driving helps to reduce stalling.

How to find the biting point

Practice on a quiet, flat road, ensure the handbrake is on, fully depress the clutch pedal and select first gear. You will need to provide some power to the engine by gently pressing the accelerator to around the width of a £1 coin. The bite point revs should be roughly 15000 rpm on the rev counter. Try and remain at roughly 15000 rpm and very slowly raise the clutch.

You may notice that if you accelerate fast in a low gear, the engine revs high but little is made in terms of actual acceleration. You may also notice a strange burning smell coming from the engine. This could be the clutch plate slipping and producing significant heat to which will result in burning.

Testing a car clutch

You can test if your clutch is worn or damaged. Turn on your vehicle and select 3rd gear. The handbrake can be either released or applied, it doesn't matter. Gently release the clutch and the engine will stall if the clutch is in good working order.

If the clutch is damaged or worn to the point it is slipping, the engine will not stall and continue to rev.

Biting point meaning

As a simple explanation, if you imagine the clutch as two circular plates, one of the plates is connected to the drive wheels and the other to the engine.

When the driver places their foot and depresses the clutch pedal, the plates separate and so disengage the engine from the wheels allowing the car to stop or change gear. When the pedal is released, the plates are forced together, connecting the engine to the drive wheels.

Listening to the sound of the engine, as the bite point starts to engage, you will hear the engine tone lower. This is because the clutch plates are just starting to join and connect the engine to the wheels and the engine is trying to drive the car forward.

The car will not move as the hand brake is on, so as soon as you hear this change in engine tone, hold the clutch in this position. If the car creaks or groans too much, slightly press the clutch. You have now found the car biting point.

Benefits of using the bite point

Finding the bite point before moving the car off from a stationary position considerably reduces the chances of stalling. Many drivers prone to stalling, especially learner drivers have a greatly exaggerated fear of stalling the car, most of which is alleviated by finding the biting point. Further information can be found in How to stop stalling a car,

Source: drivingtips.biz

How to Properly Check Your Fluids

Part of keeping your vehicle in tiptop shape is to make sure you regularly check your fluid levels. In fact, monitoring of these levels is vital to the health of your car. It’s a great idea to read your owner’s manual. There should be diagrams of the engine there that will show you where to check all the important fluids. It’s a great way to get an idea of where the vital fluids can be found. You can also use the internet to pull up a similar picture that can help you.

 

Engine Oil

1. You’ll find towards the front of the engine a cap marked “Oil.” Check your oil with the engine off. Remove the dipstick

2. Wipe the oil off with a rag

3. Put the dipstick back in

4. Pull it out and get your reading

5. There will be two marks on the dipstick – minimum and maximum – anything in-between means your oils good. Below the minimum and you need to add oil. In older vehicles it’s a good idea to check your oil every couple of weeks. In newer vehicles check monthly.

Transmission Oil

If you have an automatic transmission you will find a dipstick to check your fluid level. It’s usually found towards the back of the engine. There are different methods for checking transmission fluids, which can be found in the owner’s manual. For most vehicles they have to be running and the transmission needs to be in neutral or park. To get a true reading the transmission should be warmed up so take it for a short drive to bring it up to operating temperature. Checking the level follows the same steps as with checking the oil. Check annually.

Engine Coolant

You should never open the radiator cap when the engine is hot. You can be splashed by the hot coolant and suffer serious burns. The majority of cars have an overflow bottler with visible level markings. You should make sure your coolant is between these markings.

Power Steering Fluid

Your car uses oil to assist with the power steering. This fluid should be checked regularly. Often it is checked at the pump but sometimes the reservoir is separate and away from the pump.

Brake Fluid

Most of the newer cars allow you to check the brake fluid levels without ever having to remove the master cylinder cap. There marking on the side of the reservoir identifying the different levels. When you are removing the cover be careful none spills on the paint as it lifts paint quickly.

Windshield Washer Fluid

You’ll see the jug that contains the blue liquid that’s magical for keeping your windshield clean. Most of the reservoirs are visibly marked. However, in some of the newer vehicles the reservoir is buried making it hard to see. Just pull the top off and start filling – you can’t hurt anything if you it overfills. A funnel can make it much easier to fill your washer fluid and other fluids as well.